JORDAN, MUCH MORE THAN PETRA
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| PETRA |
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| JERASH |
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| WADI RUM |
Article and Photos by
John and Doreen Berg
John and Doreen Berg
Introduction
The ancient city of Petra was the catalyst that
motivated us to visit Jordan. However,
it was not long before the research exposed Jordan’s hidden secrets indicating
that the country has numerous worthy sites of interest for the intrepid
traveller. Even though Jordan is
surrounded by countries that are in conflict, we found Jordan to be a safe
peaceful tourist oasis. The Jordanian
people made us feel welcome with their spontaneous wishes to enjoy their
country. A fantastic tourist
destination!
Our use of a driver and car in Romania was so successful and rewarding
that we decided to adopt a similar format for Jordan. Our local tour operator choice was Jordan
Beauty Tours. The small independent company located in Petra, custom constructed
an eighteen day tour that met our desires and fit our budget. Ali, the manager, provided excellent service
right from our airport arrival to our airport departure. (www.thegoldenagebackpackerw.blogspot.ca – Romania)
Chapter One
Amman, Jerash
and the Desert Castles: Bustling City to Barren Desert
The
centrally located Amman Pasha Hotel was to be our hub for city visits and trips
to nearby destinations. Our first day found
us across the street from our hotel investigating the Roman Theatre. We clambered the steps of the beautifully
preserved amphitheater that seemed to stretch indefinitely up the
hillside. Near the top we looked down to
marvel at the beautifully sculptured Roman columns and newly re-built plaza.
Our driver whisked us away to visit the impressive King
Abdullah Mosque. The mosque is dedicated to the late King Hussein's
grandfather. The gigantic prayer hall is
able to accommodate 7000 worshippers at one time. The large blue domed landmark is located in
Amman's modern section. Travelling to
our third morning destination found us navigating the busy city streets to
finally arrive at the entrance to the citadel that sits atop the highest hill
in Amman. Artifacts found at the site
indicate that the hill was a fortress and agora as far back as the Bronze
Age. The most interesting attractions
are two giant pillars as remains of the Roman Temple of Hercules. The viewpoint provided a panoramic view of downtown
Amman stretching beneath us.
A chicken shwarma ( flatbread rolled sandwich) washed
down with a Pepsi was our lunch before heading back to the hotel for a brief
nap before embarking on an early evening city stroll.
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The Keffiyeh is woren by many Bedouins. |
Our first stop on our late afternoon walk was at the
legendary Hashem Restaurant. The eatery
is located in a narrow alley and cement-style pillars were the stools. Judging by the long line of locals waiting to
be served we anticipated the deep fried ball-like donuts called felafels to be delicious
and they were as they melted in our mouths.
Tourism Jordan is attempting to expand the ancient cities attractions by
including the first post office as a choicThe post office contains
interesting early implements and memorabilia.
Once the curator's tour was finished, tea was offered which we enjoyed
as we sat on a balcony chatting and viewing the passing parade of vehicles and
pedestrians below us. At the bottom of
the street the restored Al Husseiny Mosque is compact and its outside courtyard
is a busy meeting spot. Following our brief
mosque visit we walked through the gold souq, past the medicine stalls, finally
gravitating to the many souvenir shops.
While they all appeared to contain the same tourist souvenirs our
guide/driver, Fawaz, suggested Orientals Quasaybate Shop. After much viewing and trying a variety of
items, Doreen selected a fancy fuchsia pashmina and quickly learned to weave it
about her head and face. I tried on a
red and white keffiyeh, but decided that it was too complicated and time
consuming to tie so decided to stick with my floppy hat. A small mosaic was also purchased. On the way home we opted to spoil our
appetites by indulging in a decadent dessert.
The small pastry shop was an outdoor eatery and the delicious
"kunafa" desserts of cream cheese, crumbled crumbs smothered in honey
syrup and served hot, became a favourite.
While we had the option of eating at the hotel or
exploring Amman's restaurant scene, we elected to dine at the hotel's
restaurant. As events unfolded we had
all our dinners at the hotel. We
discovered that the food was tasty and the second evening, the owner's wife,
planned a birthday celebration for her husband, Raymond. We were invited to enjoy varied foods and
joined in with the staff, friends and other hotel guests to party away the
evening, dancing and eating. This was the
first of many unexpected cultural experiences.
Next morning we arrived in the hotel lobby prior to
our appointed departure time to be greeted with Fawaz’s smiling face. Each morning Fawaz met us promptly with a
cheerful attitude which continued throughout the tour making a pleasant
beginning to each day. The day's journey
was into Jordan's northern fertile region.
We came to the town of Ajloun with an ancient castle which is a
formidable presence strategically built atop a hill overlooking three
wadis. The Islamic armies of Saladin
used it to protect the region against the crusaders. After a couple of hours of
inspecting the towers, chambers and staircases of this well-preserved castle we
were off to Jerash.
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| Fawez selecting just the right tasting jar of olives. |
Jerash is generally acknowledged to be one of the best
preserved ancient Roman cities and is often referred to as the "Pompeii of
the East". We entered the site
through the impressive monumental south gate and opted not to hire a guide but
to wander, following the "Lonely Planet's" outline and our noses. The massive site included the plaza
surrounded by splendid columns, the theatre with marvellous acoustics as
demonstrated with bagpipes playing for a tour group, the imaginary roar of the
crowd at the hippodrome chariot races and the splendid triumphal Hadrian's
arch.
The following day we visited three of the best
preserved desert castles located in Eastern Jordan. The group of misnamed castles served as
caravanserais, hunting lodges and forts dating from the 8th century. The once richly decorated castles attest to
Jordan's glorious historical past.
Our first stop was at Qash Kharana an impressive block
structure located in the middle of a vast barren plane. We climbed the stairways and explored the
many rooms. We noted a basin for
collecting rainwater and two larger rooms near the entrance that we concluded
were the stables.
Qass al-Azraq located near Azraz was an impressive
fort where T.E. Lawrence based himself and his men during the 1917-18 Arab
Revolt. Even though busy Highway 5 flows
past the entrance and a 1927 earthquake destroyed much, one can still sense
Lawrence dressed in his Arab robes sitting around a fire to fight off the
winter cold or pushing open the huge heavy entrance doors. This connection to “Lawrence of Arabia” is
the castle’s major draw for tourists.
Chapter Two
Madaba, Dona
and Little Petra: Mosaic City to
Desert Caves
Following the desert castle visits we undertook a
frantic drive to Madaba to visit Mount Nebo prior to its gates closing at 5:00
p.m. On the eighteen day tour this was
the only time Fawez rushed. Usually we
had ample time to enjoy the passing countryside. Mount Nebo is where Moses viewed Canaan
across from Jericho and God gave the lands to the Israelites and told Moses he
would die on the mountain. The prophecy
did occur!
After our visit Fawaz selected one of the many
roadside mosaic workshops demonstrating the art of creating mosaics complete
with attached showroom selling their products with no obligation to buy. The ladies love the shops as it's an
opportunity to purchase a souvenir or two to collect dust on the shelf at
home. Due to the late hour the workshop
was empty as the workers had left for the day but we briefly observed the works
in progress at each workstation. Next were
the showroom displays and true to form we did not escape unscathed as we
purchased two of the most expensive coffee cups we've ever owned! And low and behold, one broke on the way
home! All in all, good fun bargaining as
we could have been more forceful with our "No Thanks" and promptly
left.
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| Entrance to St. George's Church. |
Leaving Madaba we drove the King's Highway, the same ancient
trade route that was followed 3000 years ago to access the central regions. The
highway passes through a barren landscape possessing a beauty of its own. With many curves and switchbacks we snaked
our way down through Wadi Mujib, the "Grand Canyon" of Jordan, stopping
at Karak Castle. The fort is the most
impressive crusader fort perched high upon an easily defended hilltop. Karak demonstrates the crusaders'
architectural skills. Our flashlights
came into play as halls and endless passageways are a dark maze and the best
preserved rooms are underground.
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| Bridge connecting the hotel together. |
Little Petra, further south of Dana, was our morning
destination. While many visitors bypass
the region we felt Little Petra was well worth a visit, an impressive
introduction to Petra itself. From the
car park we followed the path into the narrow siq (canyon) emerging into a
larger open area housing various sized caves carved out of the dusty rose
coloured canyon walls. At the far end we
climbed a series of stone steps. The top
of the climb opened to present a beautiful panoramic view of the surrounding
landscape. It was here we met a Danish
girl who, earlier on holidays, had met a Bedouin and over time married him. The young couple sold jewelry and trinkets and
the husband leads hikes through the area.
We were especially interested in talking with her as we'd read the book
"Married to a Bedouin" by Marguerite van Geldermalsen and as events
unfolded we later met Marguerite's son, Raami ,at the family souvenir stall in
Petra.
Chapter Three
Petra: Mountain
Tops to Valley Floors
It was a breathtaking sight as we emerged from the
narrow siq to view the famous Treasury!
There isn't a camera or description that has truly captured the perfect
scene with the morning sun just rising and bathing the rose coloured Treasury
in sunlight with contrasting dark shadows on the high hilltops. The massive facade carved out of the shear
pink stone did not disappoint!
Once the adrenalin spurts had subsided and
our many photos were taken we were ready to move on. We negotiated the hire of two donkeys to pack
us like bundles of firewood to the High Place of Sacrifice and to trek to the
Monastery, finally returning to the starting point. In hindsight paying $83.00 ($60 JD) was extravagant
on our part. At first it appeared to be
a bargain as Mohammad spoke excellent English and our thoughts were that he
would be able to share his knowledge with us on our donkey trip. This was not to be as we were placed in the care
of his two young sons! Only the oldest
spoke English and once we reached the top he stayed behind to manage the
family’s trinket shop. We became very
adept at employing hand signs. Were we disappointed? Not at all!
When travelling things are not always what they appear to be so we’ve
learnt to accept and enjoy what’s presented.
Makes travelling life a lot more enjoyable.
With us clinging to the saddle horn the sure footed
donkeys worked hard trudging up the steep narrow winding path to the High Place
of Sacrifice. The location is a leveled
top of Jebel Madhah mountain to create a sacrifice platform dedicated to the
Nabataean gods. At first the sacred
place did not appear to be much. Taking
time to look more carefully the location began to unlock its features. Leaving the carved stone we spent time at
this lofty height observing Petra's daily activities far below of the camels
and donkeys flowing to and fro, of the tourists milling in groups supposedly
listening to their guides, and of the shopkeepers haggling with customers. Turning
away from the scene below we soaked up the amazing surrounding mountain top
views before beginning the descent.
I'm sure our trip down was a lot slower than our young
guide wished. The sooner he finished,
the quicker he could collect his money and contract another couple. However, we were determined to enjoy the
views and points of interest and to insist on walking instead of riding on
steeper trail sections for safety reasons.
We had read that the donkeys and guides travelled too fast descending
and accidents have occurred. We did not
wish to become a statistic!
Once reaching the valley floor we rode along Colonnaded
Street passing the museum to begin our ascent to the Monastery located high in
the mountains. Again the path was steep
and hard work for the sure footed donkeys. The spectacular Monastery is similar
to but larger than the Treasury. We
ignored the shopkeepers’ invitations and hiked a short distance to a vantage
point for Monastery photos. Here we sat
in the shade of a huge boulder to share a meager lunch. Afterwards we explored
the Monastery's interior rooms. Finally we decided to walk via the same steep
slippery, but now much busier, trail to the valley floor. Leading the donkeys our guide knew our
routine and agreed to meet us at the trail head. Our day's journey ended near the treasury and
our goodbyes with a tip left our young guide with a broad smile.
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| There were many spots where the beautiful coloured rock had been exposed. |
The return walk in the siq was an adventure as we
needed to be aware of the horse drawn buggies rapidly approaching and listen
for the returning ones, plus avoid bumping into individuals in large tourist
groups navigating the siq. I’m sure if
you did not pay attention to your surroundings you could be run over by horse,
bugguy or man. We were certainly pleased
that we had started early morning and pledged to repeat the same procedure beginning
the following day.
As it turned out we were the only dinner guests dining
at the hotel and the chef and waiter created special meals for us. On the last evening dimmed lights and a candle
lit table met our restaurant entrance.
The two young men were excited and pleased with the romantic candlelit
dinner atmosphere they had fashioned for us. We appreciated this special treatment.
As promised to ourselves, the next morning found us entering
the siq early. This is the best time to
see Petra as there are fewer people and more importantly the early morning sun
enhances the amazing natural colour tones of the rock faces. On our second day we visited the four Royal
Tombs and our favourite was the Urn Tomb recognizable by the enormous urn on
its top. We continued past the tombs
following a walking path to the seldom-visited Sextius Florentinus Tomb. Of course we paused to share a cup of tea
with a Bedouin grandmother. Along the
path we stopped at caves and photographed the exposed colourful layered reddish
rock formations. It was apparent by the
strong odour that a few caves were being used to stable goat herds. We hiked to the Petra Church and admired the
exquisite Byzantine floor mosaics. Lunch
time found us sitting on two rocks in Wadi Musa just below the ancient city of
Petra’s center sharing our meager lunch of bread and cheese. The possibility of a flash flood did cross
our minds but the wadi did afford us a tranquil moment complete with shade.
The afternoon was spent clambering over and around the
ancient Roman ruins and visiting the two museums. All too soon the day and our energy were
spent and it was time to rent a donkey taxi from in front of the museum for the
return to the siq entrance and home to Sunset Hotel for a much deserved nap.
The "Petra at Night" walk through the siq to
the Treasury is lit by candles draped with paper bags which soften the
light. The atmosphere was awe-inspiring
and mystical. One could surmise that
ancient travellers must have viewed Petra in a like manner. Hundred of lit candles filled the Treasury courtyard
as we sat toward the back. Traditional
Bedouin music began and the flash cameras erupted. Further mystery was added as a breeze sprung up
causing a few bags to ignite sending sparks skyward. The breeze increased and raindrops began to
fall. We elected to leave before the
performance finished anticipating a deluge of water flowing through the siq and
people rushing to leave, soaked to the skin.
Even leaving early we felt the candlelight experience was one not to
miss.
"Petra by Candle" is currently being held
Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday evenings.
Check the weather forecast as there are no ticket refunds if the evening
is cancelled due to rain. People are
instructed to walk quietly, not to use flash and no flashlights until the
return walk. A flashlight is a must for
the return walk as many of the bag lanterns will have expired and light is
needed to navigate the rougher spots.
Dress in layers or take a jacket as the evenings can be cool. Pre-purchase your ticket at the main ticket
office during the day thus avoiding a lineup and being in front with fewer
walkers. This truly is an awe-inspiring
occasion.
Chapter Four
Wadi Rum:
Bedouins and Camels
About five minutes before our designated departure
time from Petra, Ali showed up in the hotel lobby to inform us there was to be
a change of drivers. Fawaz had phoned
half an hour earlier to inform Ali that his wife was in the hospital. Ali had already arranged for a replacement,
an English speaking driver, and wished to make sure we were satisfied with the
change. Ali instructed the driver as to
the day’s program. We were amazed how
quickly and seamlessly Ali was able to deal with the adversity and adjust our
transfer to Wadi Rum.
On arrival in Wadi Rum, Salameh, the manager of
Caravan Desert Camp, met us at the entrance and placed us in a three person
tent thus providing extra space for storing our backpacks. Once stowed away, lunch was served. What fantastic meals were prepared by our
chef who had recently retired from a five star Aqaba hotel to enjoy the more
relaxed pace of a desert camp. The three
daily meals were varied and scrumptious.
As a result meal times were an event to anticipate with drooling taste
buds.
In the late afternoon we climbed into the back of an
older Toyota 4x4 for our desert tour. A
young Bedouin driver dressed in traditional gowns drove us to sand dunes where
we were joined by truck loads of tourists from other camps. Of course the dunes presented a challenge to
reach the top. It was two steps forward
and one step back plus a pause or two before we reached the sand dunes'
summit. The spectacular view of the vast
desert stretching before our eyes made the onerous climb all worthwhile. After descending the dunes we drove to view
petroglyphs depicting camel caravans, warriors and animals inscribed on the
rock faces by the Thamudies and Nabataean many centuries ago. The visit to Lawrence of Arabia's house was
more of a tea stop in a large Bedouin tent to relax and enjoy tea traditionally
brewed over an open fire. Driving around
the maze of monolithic hills, one could imagine Lawrence in his flowing robes,
with rifle in hand seated on a camel, to come galloping around the next corner. The day ended watching a brilliant sunset.
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| Photo was taken from a hilltop behind our camp. |
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| Early morning sunrise ride and doreen hanging on. |
Chapter Five
Aqaba
and the Red Sea: Sun Tanning to Snorkeling
Our morning's drive covered the last
segment of the King's Highway. The
highway flows from Madaba through the central part of Jordan ending in Aqaba. Even today the highway, as witness by the
many tractor trailer trucks on their way inland, provides the main access to
the interior much like it has over the centuries.
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| Lunch at a restaurant near our hotel. |
The following morning a shuttle bus
transported us to Berenice Private Beach Resort. At the ticket booth we discovered that all
personal snacks and water were collected to be returned to us when we
left. Needless to say we had no other
option but to purchase food and water from the resort which was expensive!
Sun umbrellas and loungers were plentiful
and soon we put on rented snorkels and fins to delight in swimming amongst the
colourful corals and tropical fish. It
soon became clear why the Red Sea is considered a world class diving and
snorkeling center.
Dining at a downtown restaurant was the
evening plan. The selection was the
popular Ali Baba Restaurant with its large outdoor seating and oodles of ambience. The delicious sayadieh, a fish and rice dish
cooked with caramelized onions, was a recommended local favourite and an
excellent choice followed by kunafa, a dessert that was now an addiction.
Chapter 6
Wadi Ghuweir: Bedouin Family Stay
Our question as to who our driver might be
for the next two days was answered as Fawaz with a grin from ear to ear walked
into the hotel's lobby. Once we said our
warm welcomes and heard the good news that his wife was well enough to be
discharged from the hospital we piled into the car. Fawaz drove around the corner and stopped at
a local restaurant and ordered coffee and our favourite dessert, kunafa, all
around. The 9:00 a.m. time was early so
there was to be a half hour wait until the pastry was available. We suggested foregoing the decadent treat and
pushing on, but Fawaz would hear none of this.
As we waited, I coughed, so I explained that I'd developed an irritation
in my throat. Fawaz, with me in tow, was
off to the nearest pharmacy to purchase a cough suppressant! These are just two
examples of the many reasons our Jordanian trip was special. Our past experiences with tour personnel had
been their focus on visiting the designated spots without deviation except for
a photo opportunity when asked. But not
Fawaz? It was his treat and not the
first time he had surprised us with a local delicacy. No wonder we enjoyed this guy!
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| Enjoying the evening meal Bedouin style. |
A newer Toyota 4x4 was waiting to transport
us into Wadi Ghuweir where we walked the creek bed to the water source for the
valley vegetable farms. Since Fawaz's
English and knowledge of the archeological sites was limited we were not sure
which of the many sites we visited. It
was fun and interesting to poke about the many remnants of metates and manos
and to peer into the many dug holes and speculate whether the excavations were
the result of an archeological team or of treasure seekers.
Driving back I was still fussing and not
convinced that we were going to stay at the Bedouin camp. Doreen continued to assure me that the
Bedouin tent was indeed where we were spending the night. I finally was convinced when upon our return
the delicious smells of cooking were drifting from the open pit cooking
fire. Doreen smiled telling me that was
our dinner cooking and since she wasn't troubled with the evening's
accommodation or lack of privacy, I resigned myself to what, in the end, turned
out to be a fantastic cultural "happening". Not many tourists would experience the chance
to be adopted by a Bedouin family for one night.
The goat hair tent was open to the front
and farrsha thick mattresses stuffed with wool were placed around three sides
of the enclosed perimeter. These were
used for reclining as we chatted or for sitting as we ate. Next door was the female and cooking
tent. It was closed in, affording more
privacy. The goats and donkeys were
corralled nearby.
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| VIEW INTO OUR HOTEL ROOM! |
Prior to the evening meal a water pitcher
was provided to use for hand washing and if need be for other washroom
tasks. The complete meal was served on
one large circular platter with an accompanying basket of flat bread. No plates, no silverware, no condiments, no
water glasses just your fingers! We
followed Fawaz's example and ripped chunks of bread to use as a spoon to scoop up
a tasty tomato based dish and with our fingers selected deliciously flavoured
chicken pieces. The outdoor smoke-scented
air created a camping ambience flare.
In the evening the men and boys sat around
the perimeter many smoking and drinking tea.
The father entertained us playing the rababah, a one-stringed musical
instrument shaped much like a violin and can be found in most Bedouin
homes. Fawaz could have remained in town
but he chose to remain with us blending and enjoying a new experience too. Just one small cozy tour group spending the
night in an unexpected setting!
For sleeping there was no privacy at
all! All the males slept on a farrsha or
outside the tent on the hard ground.
Doreen stated that she was going to sleep in her clothes and I followed
suit. An easy solution to the privacy
concerns. Out came our flashlights and a small toilet paper roll. Our hosts provided each of us with a thick
heavy blanket which we folded in half using one half for further padding atop
our farrshas and the top half for warmth.
At our age there's bound to be a needed toilet trip in the wee morning
hours and here the bathroom was gigantic.
All we had to do was stumble over rocks to pick a spot away from the
tent! At night the open air plan was not
a concern. However, in the daylight, our
western customs caused us self-conscious embarrassment.
After a hearty breakfast of bread, fresh
fruits, canned tuna, cheeses and of course hot tea, we were to leave with the
oldest son. He would return us to the
tourist office and continue on to his school teaching employment. The tourist office afforded private washrooms
where we completed our morning routines.
When we first outlined the trip we had
asked Jordan Beauty Tours (Ali) to factor in different "off the beaten
tourist track" activities. The Bedouin family stay was one of the
events. Remember to be careful what you
ask for as you might just get your wish, and we certainly did.
Chapter 7
Dead Sea Resort : Floating and Relaxing
On the way to our Dead Sea Hotel we
selected an option to visit Hammamat Ma'n.
The resort is considered the most famous of the many hot springs located
in the region. The hot waters cascade
off the hillside in a series of waterfalls.
We three musketeers enjoyed the water pelting off our backs as we sat
beneath the falls. Eventually we climbed
to a cave behind the falls where the water was too hot to dip your foot
into. The cave's moist air created a
sauna like atmosphere. After enjoying
our refreshing soak we changed and continued on our way. The steep twisting and turning road returned
us to the main Dead Sea Highway.
The new Winter Valley Warwick Hotel was
difficult to locate. Upon arrival we
were pleasantly surprised how lovely the hotel's exterior was and how near to
the Dead Sea the hotel was situated. From
the hotel we could see the Dead Sea’s bright blue waters. After checking in we said our goodbyes to
Fawaz, thankful for his cheerful disposition and safe driving skills.
We treated our Warwick stay as a resort
hotel holiday remaining on site, booking spa treatments, covering ourselves
from head to toe with mucky mud and soaking in the buoyant Dead Sea waters. The
time flew by and soon we were to the trip's last days.
Chapter 8
Madaba:
More Mosaics
The day's highlight was a visit to Bethany,
Christ’s baptismal site. Upon arrival at
the tourist office we were instructed to wait for the next shuttle bus to
transport us to the starting point.
However, our driver wished to visit the site too and arranged with a
guide to transport the three of us to the tour's beginning point. Of the sights we were most interested in was
the spot that is believed to be where John the Baptist baptised Jesus. The others were viewing the wilderness in
which John the Baptist wandered and the Jordan River itself. While rather narrow and muddy in appearance,
the Jordan’s historical significance makes the river a favourite spot to be
baptized. On the Israeli side two
tourist groups were proceeding with baptismal ceremonies accompanied with
singing and cheering. On our return walk
we stopped to visit a mod
ern Greek orthodox church with a lovely golden dome on
top. Once at the car park we thanked our
guide and completed the drive to Madaba.
ern Greek orthodox church with a lovely golden dome on
top. Once at the car park we thanked our
guide and completed the drive to Madaba.
It was pleasant to enter the Mosaic City
Hotel's lobby in Madaba and be greeted with familiar faces. After having been living out of backpacks,
the return felt like entering one's own home.
The evening witnessed us returning to what was now our favourite local
restaurant, Haret Jdoudna Restaurant.
The meal featured Jordanian dishes such as humus, fatteh, (bread), and
roast lamb ending with a fig dessert.
Returning to the room we "skyped"
our kids and found that only a few hours earlier our grandson's wife had given
birth to Jackson, their first child.
Thanks to modern technology we had discovered within hours of the birth
and thousands of miles away that we had just become great grandparents!
The following day we were able to visit the
attractions that had been closed on the first visit to Madaba. The purchase of a combined ticket provided
entrance to the Church of the Apostles, Madaba's museum and the Archeological
Park. We leisurely visited all three
great sites, each having distinctly different contributions. We stumbled across a small mosaic workshop
and watched the owner creating mosaic wall plaques for a hotel order. Of course we purchased a mosaic design and at
a much lower price than the tourist shops on the roadway to Nebo Mountain.
The homeward bound flight from Queen Alia
Airport was scheduled for a midnight departure time providing ample time to
celebrate our last night in Jordan.
Entering the lobby we noticed the hotel's steel shutters drawn. Upon inquiry we were informed that street
demonstrations were in progress protesting the government's 30 % gas
increase. The family felt we would avoid
the protesters and be safe walking to the city center so they unlocked the door
letting us out onto the front street. We
had not walked ten meters before the shouting increased and we were immersed in
a pushing panicked crowd running down the main street. We broke free of the pack turning down a side
street to regain entry to the hotel via a side entrance. The initial plan was to pound on the door to
attract the owner's attention.
Fortunately our destination was realized and the son was already there
unlocking the side door when we arrived.
What a relief!
The nightmarish experience altered our
plans for an evening dining celebration. Stranded in the hotel we retreated to
the second floor restaurant to order dinner and peered out the restaurant’s
windows at the erupting street scene of fires and damaged cars. The family had
not planned on serving us an evening meal as other guests had opted to eat
elsewhere too. They had prepared their
own meal and inquired if we would like to share it with them or they could cook
a chicken meal for us. We happily agreed
to share and enjoyed a typical meatless Jordanian dish similar to our cabbage
rolls. This turned out to be a most
satisfactory solution to our plight.
Due to the street disruptions we were concerned
our taxi would not be able to enter the downtown area to transport us to the
airport. However, the taxi arrived on time but the
driver had to make several route adjustments to gain Madaba's outskirts. It was with some relief when we arrived at
the airport without further incidents and were safely past airport security to
wait for our flight to London, England.
For us, Jordan was not just Petra. Certainly, Petra is the main attraction and
deserves the world wide recognition it receives but we discovered there are
other worthy sites and activities to challenge the intrepid tourist.
General Information:
Hotels: Hotels were
centrally located close to attractions and restaurants. The rooms had ensuites, televisions and air
condition. The amenities varied widely
from hotel to hotel but all were comfortable and clean. The hotels were ideal for getting a
comfortable night’s sleep and with breakfast included were very good value
hotels. Hotels book tours and/or
hikes. Internet was available in rooms
where indicated. Prices are for a room
in Canadian funds.
Amman: Amman Pasha
Hotel E-mail: booking@ammanpashahotel.com,
Web: www.ammanpashahotel.com ($46 )
This is an excellent location with the restaurant
serving tasty inexpensive meals.
Outstanding service and Raymond, the English speaking owner, would
assist with any problems a guest might encounter. Comfortable rooms with basic facilities. A great value hotel.
Madaba: Mosaic City
Hotel E-mail: info@mosaiccityhotel.com Web: www.mosaiccityhotel.com ($62)
This is an excellent beautifully appointed
accommodation. Offering more than the
hotel’s three star rating. Rooms have a
mini bar and free Wi-Fi. A family run
hotel located about a half hour drive from Queen Alia Airport. A pleasant surprise to find such luxury at
this price. One of our favourite hotels.
Dana: Dana Tower
Hotel E-mail: danatower2@hotmail.com
Web: www.danatowerhotel.com
($22)
A collection of quirky rooms, seating areas
and restaurant all cemented together.
The reconstruction process used existing ancient structures adding stone
and block to create a funky hotel. Rooms
have quaint names like ours “The Cave” or “Flying Carpet”. Ask for an ensuite room. Fun place to stay.
Petra: Sun Set
Hotel E-mail: info@petrasunset.com
Web: www.petrasunset.com ($39)
Located on the main street within walking distance
of the entrance to Petra which is the hotel’s main feature. Lobby is spacious. Rooms were basic. Dinners were excellent and better value than
nearby restaurants. Good value at the
price. Internet in the lobby.
Wadi Rum: Desert
Caravan Camp Business cards being
printed. Web: Desert Caravan Camp or
Trip Adviser. Priced from ($24 to $33)
An excellent organized well-run camp. Satameh, the manager, made our visit special
with attentive service and provided us with a three person tent. The three daily meals were excellent. The shower/washroom building was clean and
set away from the spacious eating/sitting areas. Excellent value and hospitality.
Aqaba: Days Inn E-mail: info@daysinn –aqaba.com Web: www.daysinn-aqaba.com
($62)
Well appointed rooms and extremely helpful
staff. Breakfasts were very good. Dining room lacked ambience. Spotless, comfortable rooms with free Wi-Fi. Another favourite.
Wadi Ghuweir: Bedouin
Family Stay Book through Jordan
Beauty Tours. E-mail: info@jordanbeauty.com
Wanting an “off beaten” travel experience
this is it. Great hospitality and a true
taste of Bedouin life. Facilities are primitive. Food was flavourful and served Bedouin
style. A fantastic travel experience we
still reminisce about!
Dead Sea: Winter Valley
Warwick E-mail: info.wintervalleywarwick@warwickhotels.com
Web: www.wintervalleywarwick.com
($155) All meals included.
A spectacular new property with staff
striving to make one’s stay most enjoyable.
The reception area of modern architectural design provides a bright,
cheerful ambience throughout the hotel.
Rooms are spacious and well appointed.
Free Wi-Fi and free mini bar. However,
I would assume this feature would disappear as the hotel becomes
established. Pool is large with ample
lounging chairs and the Dead Sea touches the property. Phase two will be the construction of the
beach front. Currently there are
umbrellas, loungers, towels and a fresh water shower, plus buckets of free
healthy Dead Sea mud to slather on from head to toe. Beach safety is a focus
with a lifeguard on duty. Restaurant is
spacious with ample seating and wide food choices. An excellent resort/spa hotel. A favourite.
Tour Company:
Jordan Beauty Tours:
E-mail: info@jordanbeautytours.com
Web: www.jordanbeauty.com Ali
Al-Hassant – Sales and Marketing Manager
Our tour included all transfers by deluxe
car with an English speaking driver.
Entrance fees to all sites including Petra, hotel accommodations with
breakfast and all dinner at the hotels, a jeep desert safari plus airport
pickup and departure assistance. Within
our package were extras like side trips to an olive factory, a brick plant and
a stop at local produce stalls. Cost for
18 days was $1500 US p/p. As independent travellers we usually utilize local
transportation and book tours when needed, but considering the excellent
services and experiences we received, I doubt very much that we could have
organize our own tour for less! Ali
strove to create a “once in a lifetime” Jordanian experience and he most
certainly did this.
Transportation:
Fawaz Farajat: E-mail: fawaz.farajat@yahoo.com
Mobile: 00962(0)7774457950
A safe driver and equally important, a
wonderful cheerful person. Prompt and
helpful.
Research Sources:
Lonely Planet: Jordan, 8th
edition Published July 2012
Internet:
www.visitjordan.com
Hotel Bookings: www.agoda.com www.booking.com Plus
many others.
Please use the comment box to let us know of any errors. Unable to make a hard copy thus difficult to edit. Thanks.
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| JERASH -COLONNAED STREET Original stones complete with ruts worn by chariot wheels. |
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